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Chele La Himalayan Kingdom Marathon, 22^nd November 2007 

Miles Cudmore reports:

At 4pm in the afternoon before the race, I found myself trekking uphill at 3,500m.  Above us perched precariously on a cliff was a Buddhist nunnery, prayer flags fluttering in the cold breeze.  We had 350m still to climb to reach the Chele La pass, and were wondering how 2 hours of mountain walking fitted with pre race rest.  Our Bhutanese guides had misinterpreted instructions, sending the bus on its way before we realised what was happening.  But it was a stunning walk and a chance for some final acclimatisation.

The next morning the 15 British runners joined 26 Bhutanese at the start line in our hotel grounds.  Bright sunshine slanted through the trees melting the frost, and our breath steamed in the still air.  Buddhist monks started to chant and the Bhutanese joined in as the race was blessed by the Deputy Governor of Paro and the local Chief of Justice.  Minutes later, this unique race was underway as we ran downhill to the valley floor.  As we continued along a dusty track past paddy fields and traditional farm houses, the group soon spread out. 

None of the Bhutanese had run a marathon before, but a number were clearly very able athletes and performed well up to half way.  I chatted to Chemje, a 17 year old from the local Taekwondo club.  He had run a 12 km race before, was really enjoying the event, and seemed to know everyone.  This part of the route gently undulated along the valley at an altitude of 2,275m to 2,450m, and economic running was essential. 

I took particular care on the uphills and also focused on taking on fluids and energy gels to keep topped up.  After going through Paro, a small town with lots of enthusiastic support, we climbed up a road to the start of the mountain trails.  The 18 km first section had taken me 96 minutes, and included 290m of ascent and descent.  I was eighth overall and feeling comfortable.

The first 600m uphill was brutal, and sweat poured off me as I took a direct line up the barren, rocky slope in blazing sunshine.  I quickly passed two runners from Bhutan and was then alone.  My aim was to hold a sustained effort, pushing where possible whilst not letting the heart rate go over 150 bpm, and to take on fluids and energy regularly.  I had replaced my bottle belt with a running rucksack containing additional clothing for colder conditions higher up, two 500ml water bottles and a generous stock of gels, energy bars, electrolyte powder and hydration tablets.  I made up new drinks at most waterstops, and also took on bananas.  The system worked well and enabled me to maintain effort and avoid cramps for almost the whole race.

Climbing through 3,000m I passed a small monastery set in flatter grazing land and pine trees.  Some young monks were practicing archery – the national sport – and arrows thudded into the slope behind me.  I caught up with three Bhutanese runners and Mike Warwick from the UK, and soon passed them as the climb continued through the trees.  Any ground in the shade was white with frost and we could see spectacular views of Mt Jhomolhari.  This is Bhutan’s highest mountain and has never been climbed as it is considered sacred.  When I paused to add a layer of clothing, Mike caught me up and quickly used his fell running pedigree to move ahead as we headed down a steep descent.  However, the path soon headed back uphill and I passed him once more on a particularly steep section and was now second behind a runner from Bhutan.

Streams of prayer flags and several chortens at 3,600m heralded the nunnery with very narrow paths traversing steep slopes with the buildings clinging to the cliffs overhead.  With shouts of encouragement from supporters who had walked there, I started the final tricky uphill section to the Chele La pass at 3,840m.  The 1660m of ascent from the start of the mountain trails took me 2hr 49min.  The final steep stage was hard with the altitude taking its toll, but the reception at the top was fantastic.

 The third stage of the race now began, a huge descent down the same trails to the valley below.  After four minutes going down I met Mike coming up and knew it was only a matter of time before his downhill skills would enable him to pass me.  My aim was to keep moving in a controlled way, flowing as much as possible to avoid stressing the quads.  The sub zero temperatures, difficult access and spread field meant that any accident would be bad news and it was not the time or place to experiment.  I felt good and was soon able to establish a reasonable rhythm over the broken ground.  Approaching the nunnery I met a nun with an enormous wood basket on her back on a narrow path traversing a steep slope, but was able to squeeze by with smiles all round.  It would be interesting to know what they made of the race in their remote eyrie.

 My bonhomie was dented at 35km when the trail headed sharply back uphill.  The altitude was still over 3,400m and I felt exhausted as the muscles for climbing had to be re-engaged and protested with slight cramps.  At 39km in the meadows above the monastery, Mike came by and soon was out of sight.  I then met a cow in a steep, narrow gully, but was able to squeeze by with no complaints or kicks.

The toughest bit of the race then started with 600m of descent on loose, rocky ground on very tired legs.  The valley floor seemed a long way down, and I used the switchbacks to keep a sensible rhythm.  On reaching the road again, it was one last push uphill to the hotel and the finish to yells of tremendous support.  I was ecstatic to finish third in 6hr 24min, 9 minutes behind Mike (first international finisher) and 35 minutes behind the Bhutanese race winner.

 The race covered 2,165m of ascent and descent at altitudes between 2,275m and 3,835m over the full marathon distance.  It was the first time a mountain marathon had been held in Bhutan, and was harder than the organisers expected.  10 out of 15 British marathoners completed the course, half after nightfall by torchlight.  6 Bhutanese runners also made it in a very creditable first performance.  Next year the course will stay lower and have less ascending, and I strongly recommend giving it a go.  Bhutan is a remarkable country and 2:09 Events plus local guides Blue Poppy Tours made it into an unforgettable 10 day tour.